Power Valves


OK, so when I am wanting to disassemble the power valve, and release it from the cable, how do I go about that?

Is there a perch for the spring that holds it in? DO you need to twist or something.

What about the servo? Ive takn it off but thats it for now, do you make the marks now before touching anything, or only when adjusting?
 
chilli said:
OK, so when I am wanting to disassemble the power valve, and release it from the cable, how do I go about that?turn the servo clock wise till there's lots of slack in the cable,,then remove your 4 screw's that hold the housing to the cyl,pull out the valve slide the cable out.


What about the servo? Ive takn it off but thats it for now, do you make the marks now before touching anything, or only when adjusting?why did you remove the servo,not needed remount it back on..
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dammit, the spray type is combustion chamber cleaner...checked after 24hr, slightly cleaner but nothing special. Doesnt say Upper cleaner, but I guess this may be the same stuff

Guess its elbow grease time
 
kleens works awsome

this GM kleens stuff was painless to get powervalves like new soaked 48 hours no work at all after that to get them new again great idea
 
Now I don't have P/Vs, but.....I have some YAMAHA COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER. Used it to clean the pistons and domes. It completely liquified the carbon in the chamber and the dome. Don't know if this stuff would work on P/Vs but definately worked for me.
 
power valve cleaning

I agree there are many differing opinions on this. I used a small metal scraper to get the chunks of carbon off. I used a high grit aluminum oxide sandpaper clean them up.
Carefull using a metal scraper, the valves can be scratched with one of these.

I did not use any chemicals on the valves. I believe some of this stuff could be absorbed into the pores of the metal power valves. Iam not a chemist so I avoided the cleaners on them. Maybe someone with experience in metal cleaning knows what would work and not be absorbed into the metal.

That is my two cents on power valve cleaning. The goal is to just clean them up so they can operate properly.
 
The coating on the power valves is aluminum oxide. This coating is applied to the power valves using an electrolytic anodization process. The aluminum oxide is approx. 0.001" in. thick. The purpose of the aluminum oxide is to provide a very hard and durable surface so the carbon deposits can be removed without damaging the aluminum base metal. DO NOT use oven cleaner, strong detergents such as Castrol super clean or any other cleaner with a high pH (cleaners containing hydroxides) Oven cleaners and the strong detergents dissolve aluminum very quickly. Members of this site insist on proving this fact several times per season. The aluminum oxide layer is insoluble in these cleaners however the coating is not pinhole free. Soaking the valves in these strong hydroxide cleaners allows the cleaner to penetrate the pinholes and imperfections in the aluminum oxide and dissolve aluminum base metal therefore destroy the valves. The power valves are completely safe when cleaned with solvents: carb cleaner, brake cleaner, penetrating oil, etc.. I use a scotchbrite pad with fast orange hand cleaner. The pumice in the fast orange hand cleaner with the scotchbrite pad removes the carbon residue and does not damage teh aluminum oxide coating. I clean and adjust the power valves on mt 2 SRX's every 700 miles. Cleaning the more often allows easier cleaning. It takes me less than 5 min. of scrubbing per valve to get them completely clean.

DO NOT USE OVEN CLEANER OR STRONG DETERGENTS UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND MONEY ON NEW VALVES!!!
 
Thank you for the post rx1jim. Great info. I knew there was a coating on the valves but did not know what it was. Thanks man. I will be following your advice; it makes sense to me.
 
FYI - I did a test last year running Yamalube in my "01" SRX and Amsoil in my "98" SRX. The "01" broke down mid way through season because of shock issues. By the end of the season the "98" had nearly twice as many miles on it using only Amsoil and the PV's were 10X cleaner than the "01's".

Thought this might help for future cleanings.
 
Spaz's SRX said:
FYI - I did a test last year running Yamalube in my "01" SRX and Amsoil in my "98" SRX. The "01" broke down mid way through season because of shock issues. By the end of the season the "98" had nearly twice as many miles on it using only Amsoil and the PV's were 10X cleaner than the "01's".

Thought this might help for future cleanings.
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Thanks Spaz.
A couple of my buddies that run powervalved Yammies believe the same.
Know several powervalve owners(gearheads) that run Klotz brand oil with:2strokes: great results too. I have some Amsoil Interceptor to use up and then I plan on going to the Klotz. Good stuff!
The Yamalube does cause sooner build up on the valves;from what I have seen in my own sled.
 
rx1jim said:
The coating on the power valves is aluminum oxide. This coating is applied to the power valves using an electrolytic anodization process. The aluminum oxide is approx. 0.001" in. thick. The purpose of the aluminum oxide is to provide a very hard and durable surface so the carbon deposits can be removed without damaging the aluminum base metal. DO NOT use oven cleaner, strong detergents such as Castrol super clean or any other cleaner with a high pH (cleaners containing hydroxides) Oven cleaners and the strong detergents dissolve aluminum very quickly. Members of this site insist on proving this fact several times per season. The aluminum oxide layer is insoluble in these cleaners however the coating is not pinhole free. Soaking the valves in these strong hydroxide cleaners allows the cleaner to penetrate the pinholes and imperfections in the aluminum oxide and dissolve aluminum base metal therefore destroy the valves. The power valves are completely safe when cleaned with solvents: carb cleaner, brake cleaner, penetrating oil, etc.. I use a scotchbrite pad with fast orange hand cleaner. The pumice in the fast orange hand cleaner with the scotchbrite pad removes the carbon residue and does not damage teh aluminum oxide coating. I clean and adjust the power valves on mt 2 SRX's every 700 miles. Cleaning the more often allows easier cleaning. It takes me less than 5 min. of scrubbing per valve to get them completely clean.

DO NOT USE OVEN CLEANER OR STRONG DETERGENTS UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND MONEY ON NEW VALVES!!!
Click to expand...

Just to scare you guys and show you what rx1jim a turk are talking about here is what I did to my brand spanking new valve last year. :o|

For more see original thread.
1087ic3.jpg
 
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